Layout and arrange all nine parallelograms in their number/assembly order for all six of your leaf blocks as shown on page 15 of the pattern. This is a great time to rearrange or change any colors if you'd like.
Next, we'll assemble each of our leaf blocks. The leaf blocks come together a lot like a log cabin block. Each leaf block will be assembled in numerical order, starting with pieces #1 and #2.
You can speed things up a bit by chain piecing each piece #1 with piece #2 for all six leaf blocks. Then add a piece #3 to each of those units, then add a piece #4, and so on.
I walk you through each step in the videos below. There are some great tips and tricks in the videos too, including:
Steps 29-34: Adding the Background Fabric to the Leaf Blocks
Step 29:
Grab the rest of your background fabric and get ready to cut! I highly recommend starching and pressing this fabric, if you haven't already. Starching once or twice on each side will add stability and help you make clean and accurate cuts.
First, we're going to use the last 8 ½" strip of background fabric. Keep it folded in half and align your 60º Diamond Ruler with the 8 ½" measurement along the bottom of the strip and the flat tip at the top of the strip. The selvage edges will align at the solid black line down the center of the ruler. Cut the selvages off.
Step 30:
Next, rotate the ruler to align the align the 8 ½" measurement along the top of the strip and the flat tip along the bottom of the strip. Cut along the right side of the ruler (left side if you're a lefty) to cut two 8 ½" triangles. Clip the two pointy tips of each triangle flat (DON'T skip this step!).
Steps 31 & 32 - Cutting the Scraps of Background Fabric:
Remember those scraps of background fabric from Step 9? We're going to use them to cut the background pieces for three of our Leaf Blocks. The video below will take you through cutting each one as shown in steps 31 & 32.
Cut (1) 8 ½" wedge piece from a right-facing scrap piece of background fabric. Align the bottom edge of the scrap with the 8 ½" dashed triangle line on the ruler and the LEFT cut edge of the scrap with the LEFT center dashed line of the ruler. Aligning with the left dashed line builds in the seam allowance so it's super important to stay aware of. Cut along the edge of the ruler and clip off the bit of fabric at the top and on the bottom corner. This is your second right-facing 8 ½" wedge triangle.
Cut (1) 4 ½" wedge piece from a left-facing scrap piece. Align the bottom edge of the scrap with the 4 ½" dashed triangle line on the ruler and the RIGHT cut edge of the scrap with the RIGHT center dashed line of the ruler. Cut along the edge of the ruler and clip off the tips. This piece will be assembled with the left-hand column of the quilt. Set aside for now.
Cut (1) 4 ½" 60º triangle from a right-facing scrap piece of background fabric. Align the bottom edge of the scrap with the 4 ½" dashed triangle line on the ruler. Cut along both edges of the ruler and clip all three tips flat. This piece will also be assembled with the left-hand column of the quilt. Set aside for now.
Sorting & Arranging the Leaf Units:
Let's sort out which leaf blocks will go with which pieces of background fabric. Three of the pieced leaf units will be made into full leaf blocks with two 60º triangles each. And the other three leaf units will be made into partial leaf blocks with the 8 ½" wedge triangles. I'll take you through my sorting process in the next video.
Take a little time to lay out all of the leaf units with your bloom units to make sure you're happy with the arrangement before you sew the 60º triangles to your leaf units.
Step 33 - Making the Full Leaf Blocks:
Next, we'll make (3) full leaf blocks by adding two 8 ½" triangles to one pieced leaf unit. You can place the 8 ½" triangles on the same sides of the leaf units as they are in the pattern, or rotate them to suit your personal style.
Steps for Joining the 8 ½" Triangles: (videos below)
- Glue or pin baste one triangle to the left side of one pieced leaf unit.
- Sew the seam (release glue if necessary).
- Set the seam with your iron.
- Press the seam open.
- Repeat each step to add the second triangle to the left side.
- Repeat for two more leaf units (make three total).
Step 34 - Making the Partial Leaf Units:
And finally, we'll sew the 8 ½" wedge triangles to our last three pieced leaf units. There's a great diagram on page 17 of your pattern that shows where each wedge triangle should be placed on each leaf block. Each of these partial leaf units make up a portion of the outside edge of the quilt so correct placement is essential.
Two leaf units will be joined with the two right-facing wedge triangles, and the last leaf unit will be joined with the left-facing wedge triangle. One right-facing and the left-facing partial leaf unit goes at the top of the quilt, and the second right-facing partial leaf unit goes at the bottom.
Steps for Joining the 8 ½" Wedge Triangles: (video below)
- Glue or pin baste each wedge triangle to one pieced leaf unit.
- Sew the seam (release glue if necessary).
- Set the seam with your iron.
- Press the seam open.
- Repeat for the remaining leaf units.
